Brickwork
This is probably more than you’ll ever want to know about brickwork.
A standard sized brick is (in inches) 9 long x 4.1/2 wide x 3 high or (in metric) 215 x 100 x 75. These are nominal sizes.
Bricks come in a large range with differing strengths, compositions, colours and uses. For example high-quality facing bricks for exposed brickwork, or blue engineering bricks for damp-proof courses. You can get special angled bricks for cills, wall tops, and corners.
The bricks are held together by mortar that is supposed to fully-fill the vertical and horizontal joints. Horizontal lines of brickwork are called courses.
Malaysia doesn’t have the quality or range of bricks available say, in the UK. Bricks here are seldom manufactured for loading or for appearance. They are for infill walls – to fill the spaces left by columns and beams. And then get covered on the inside with gypsum plaster, and outside with sand & cement plaster which is known as render.
If the 9 inch dimension is the thickness of the wall it is called a “1-brick wall.” If the 4.1/2 inch (width) dimension is the thickness of the wall then it’s a “½ brick wall.” If the 3 inch dimension is the thickness of the wall it’s a very big mistake.
1-brick walls can be loadbearing, if the bricks meet certain strengths.
A ½ brick wall can’t be loadbearing by itself. However 2 skins of ½ brick walls together with a 2 inch cavity can be a loadbearing cavity wall if they are correctly, and skillfully, tied together with butterfly steel ties every 3 courses vertically and every 3 bricks horizontally.
You may not have seen this in Malaysia. There’s the skill issue but also the “why bother” issue.
Cavity wall construction was developed for temperate and rainy climates. The outer skin gets persistently wet and the moisture goes through the brick to drop down the cavity and out through weep holes left in the bottom mortar joints. As we know, in Malaysia it rains for a couple of hours, then the sun comes out and everything is dried up.
To Summarise:
1). 1/2 brick walls are the norm, used as non-loadbearing, infill walls to a concrete frame.
Because bricklaying is poor, there are often gaps rather than mortar between the bricks as well as wonky brick courses. The bricklayers also don’t adjust the size of the mortar joints in the brick courses to accommodate the height of the infill, so when they get to the top ... ? Usually the odd 2 inches is filled with brick chips. Or, if the space is larger then a sloping brick-on-edge is used, always with plenty of gaps.
Where the size of the opening (between floor, beam, and columns) is large some of these infill walls appear unstable, they look and are “thin.” They may not meet the “slenderness ratio” for brick walls. This is a ratio between height and thickness.
These walls are supposed to be tide-in on either side to the columns. Some are, some aren’t. Those that are often use a bit of reinforcement bar sticking out of the column, a bit at the bottom, and a bit at the top. Certainly not the “ties every 3 courses” that would be a good standard.
2). 1 brick walls can be loadbearing.
However, these walls provide a much stronger infill, and far less chance of toppling over with a good kick. For the floor-to-ceiling space between columns, 1 brick walls meet the “slenderness ratio.”
Although the cost in bricks is doubled, the insulation and sound properties of the walls increase by more than double. And the wall no longer looks “thin.” There’s enough width to have a small cill on the inside and another one outside.
As 1 brick walls are stable in their own right, they can tolerate poor bricklaying, and a lack of metal ties to the columns.
3). Cavity walls are only fully utilised if they are loadbearing.
They need really skilled bricklayers. In Malaysia, the brickwork that I’ve seen is done badly (no not badly, chronically appalling more like) but concrete work (beams, columns, floors) seems OK. I wouldn’t bother with cavity walls.
Hope this helps if your going to get your own place built, or if you’re buying and want to know what you’re getting. Or if you’re buying and can get in early enough to influence the construction and you don’t mind paying more for additional external wall thicknesses.
Please feel free to add your own comments.
regards, Scott